I love surfing and skateboarding because they both allow you to do what you want to do. For example in skateboarding you can do whatever trick you want without being bossed around, and in surfing you can do whatever maneuver you want because it is your wave. Also when you are skateboarding and you have your pads on you can go for a trick and its okay if you fall because you fall on your pads. It does not hurt. In surfing you can also go big, because when you fall in the water it does not hurt. It is actually fun to fall in the ocean most times!
I feel free when I am surfing and skateboarding. Like I am letting go of all my emotions and channeling it all into my riding, in the moment and just flowing, and it makes me feel better and progress too. It is a great experience to get to do what I do, and I love doing both these ‘sports’, which are more like art!
If you want to try surfing I recommend you practice popping up on the beach first, and try on a foam surfboard first in case it hits you. Once you paddle out, start out in the white water, re-form waves first, on the inside, and avoid the main line-up out of respect for the more experienced surfers, and until you are ready to ride bigger set waves. For trying out skateboarding, I recommend you start on the flat ground first, and the streets so you can learn how to push and balance. On a mini-ramp, then you can learn how to pump back & forth – the best feeling ever! I hope you try these sports and enjoy them as much as I do. Remember it takes time but you will get it soon.